Toyota 47201-02320 Brake Master Cylinder Sub-Assembly

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To remove the brake master cylinder, start by removing the cover from the air filter housing and disconnect the electrical connector for the brake fluid level warning switch. Use a syringe to remove as much fluid as possible from the reservoir. If there is a manual transaxle, clamp off the fluid feed hose to the clutch master cylinder and detach the hose from the brake fluid reservoir. Prepare rags, caps, or plastic bags to cover the ends of the lines once they're disconnected. Use a flare-nut wrench to loosen the fittings at the ends of the brake lines where they enter the brake master cylinder. Pull the brake lines away from the brake master cylinder and plug the ends to prevent contamination. Remove the nuts attaching the brake master cylinder to the power booster, taking care not to spill any fluid. For installation, bench bleed the new brake master cylinder before installing it. Mount the brake master cylinder in a vise, clamping the jaws on the mounting flange. Attach a pair of brake master cylinder bleeder tubes to the outlet ports and fill the reservoir with recommended brake fluid. Slowly push the pistons into the brake master cylinder to expel air into the reservoir. Repeat until no more air bubbles are present. Remove the bleed tubes and install plugs in the open ports. Adjust the booster pushrod length if necessary and install a new O-ring on the brake master cylinder body. Install the reservoir cover, then position the brake master cylinder over the studs on the power brake booster and finger-tighten the attaching nuts. Thread the brake line fittings into the brake master cylinder, ensuring not to strip the threads. Fully tighten the mounting nuts, then the brake line fittings. Fill the reservoir with fluid and proceed to bleed the brake master cylinder and the brake system. Test the operation of the brake system carefully before putting the vehicle into normal service.

To remove the brake master cylinder, begin by taking off the cover from the air filter housing and unplugging the electrical connector for the brake fluid level warning switch. If there is a manual transaxle in the car, disconnect the fluid line that links the brake master cylinder reservoir to clutch master cylinder. Take out as much of it as possible from its container and tighten a clamp around it where it meets up with clutch master cylinder if needed. Using a flare-nut wrench, slacken off fittings at each end of brake lines where they enter into brake master cylinders. Seize those brake lines off masters and plug their ends. Get rid of nuts holding down your boss on power amplifier with care and gently take this boss away from studs. To install a new brake master cylinder, bench bleed it first by mounting it in a vise and attaching some tubes coming out of outlet ports of this to be bled part. Fill reservoir with hydraulic liquid slowly pushing plunger inside until all air bubbles are expelled from the system. Repeat operation several times more until all signs of air have been completely removed from the cylinder; subsequently remove bleeding lines inserting plugs into output openings thereof; now adjust booster rod length while placing a fresh ring on pump unit casing like O-ring; go further to put back both 'reservoir' cap followed by said 'master'. After screwing pipe connections into bosses, fasten retaining screws up against car body; connect hydraulic tube to fitting located on the back side (opposite side) of the flange of the control assembly; fill in the reservoir with the necessary amount of oil ensuring you have carried out before bleeding it together braking mechanism along the mastoid process or other structures behind the temporal bone articular surface while safely testing brakes upon vehicle re-entry into service mode again as usual.