Toyota 11102-29037 Head, Cylinder, LH

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Cylinder heads, new or rebuilt, are readily available at dealerships and auto parts stores. Specialized tools and parts needed for disassembly and inspection may make it more cost-effective for home mechanics to buy replacements. Cylinder head disassembly involves removing intake and exhaust valves and related components, assuming lifters or rocker arms and camshaft(s) are already removed. Before removing valves, label and store them for reinstallation in the same valve guides. Use a spring compressor to remove the springs on the first valve and its components. If a valve binds, deburr the area around the keeper groove. Repeat for all valves, keeping parts together for reinstallation. After removal, clean and inspect the head. If overhauling the entire engine, complete engine disassembly before cleaning and inspecting the cylinder head.

To implement the procedure of removing the cylinder heads, the best approach is to start with the removal of the negative cable from the vehicle battery and another one for the radiator and block. Next are the air intake plenum / intake manifold, exhaust manifold(s), and alternator for easier access. Remove the timing belt, camshaft sprockets and the upper idler pulley and note that if the timing belt is retained then, it only has to be removed from the camshaft sprockets and idler pulley while indicating its position when it is at TDC. Unfasten the bolts that secure the number 3 timing belt cover, and disconnected the connectors of the coolant sensors, and with regards to the water transfer casting, it is removed, and it is necessary to replace the transfer hose if the intake manifold is removed. Take the camshaft(s) out of the heads which are to be removed, then, undo the bolts at the back of the cylinder heads also shift the engine wiring harnesses. The head bolts are recessed hence, use an 8mm hex bit to take out the head bolts; other cylinder head bolts must be freed in an identical sequence, in ¼ turn increments until they can be taken out freely in the reverse sequence used in tightening. Remove the cylinder head, you may have to wedge a piece of wood in between the head and the block, and gently tap it with a hammer to loosen it, then repeat on the other side. For installation the surfaces on which gaskets are to be fitted must be free of carbon and old gasket materials , scraper, degreasers should be used for cleaning. Blemishes and depressions such as nicks or scratches along the mating areas should be looked at and file or machining be employed in cases of extreme conditions. Turn the threads in the cylinder head bolt holes with a tap and blow the same with compressed air. Wash all bolts with a vise in turn and use micrometers to observe their thickness, replacing those that are thinner than the permissible limit. Place the new gaskets to the dowel pins in the block correctly and gently place the head of the block on the gasket only. Coat the threads of the head bolts with clean engine oil and position them in the normal sequence, screw the bolts to make them finger tight before applying the right torque Sequence. Paint or scribe an identifying mark on the heads of all the bolts, then tighten the 12-point bolts an additional 1/4 twist, and then the recessed bolt. Perform the same process with the other cylinder head, and do the rest of the installation in the reverse manner to the removal. Last but not the least, fill up the cooling system with required liquid, change the engine oil and the filter, start the engine and check for any sign of leakage.

Valve train components such as lifters, valve springs, spring seats, keepers, and retainers should be cleaned with solvent and dried thoroughly before inspection.

After installing the cylinder heads, you should refill the cooling system, change the oil and filter, run the engine, and check for any leaks.

To prepare for reinstallation, ensure that the mating surfaces of the cylinder head and block are impeccably clean, removing all traces of carbon and old gasket material. Check for any nicks, deep scratches, or other damage on the block and head mating surfaces. Additionally, chase the threads in the cylinder head bolt holes and clean them with compressed air. Run a die down the threads of each bolt to remove corrosion.

Drop the spring seat or shim(s) over the valve guide and set the valve spring and retainer in place.

Repeat the procedure for the remaining valves, ensuring to return the components to their original locations and not to mix them up.

To remove the first valve, compress the springs with a spring compressor and remove the keepers. Once the keepers are removed, carefully release the spring compressor and take out the retainer, spring, and spring seat (if used).

Carefully inspect the head for cracks, evidence of coolant leakage, and other damage. If cracks are found, consult an automotive machine shop for repair.

The first valve can be removed by compressing the springs with a spring compressor, removing the keepers, and then carefully releasing the valve spring compressor to remove the retainer, spring, and spring seat.

Mount each bolt in a vise and run a die down the threads to remove corrosion and restore the threads.

To remove the cylinder head, you need to carefully loosen the cylinder head bolts in 1/4-turn increments until they can be removed by hand. It's crucial to loosen them in this specific manner to prevent warping or cracking of the cylinder head. The cylinder head can be lifted off the engine block, and if it's stuck, it should be cautiously pried up at the transaxle end, beyond the gasket surface.

Valve train components such as lifters, valve springs, spring seats, keepers, and retainers should be cleaned with solvent and dried thoroughly before inspection.

Yes.

After installing the cylinder heads, you should refill the cooling system, change the oil and filter, run the engine, and check for any leaks.